The Trilogy: Mt. Blanc, Matterhorn, and Eiger, July 17-26, 2006
The following is the conclusion to a report written by AAI guide Tim Connelly, detailing a series of climbs with John and Brandon Elley of Camano Island, WA on Mt. Blanc, the Matterhorn, and the Eiger that took place from July 17 - 26, 2006.
We all met up in Zermatt where Mike Powers showed us an excellent Swiss restaurant where we had a delicious meal and discussed the following days' activities and changes of equipment.
The early evening was clear, and returning to our hotels we had fantastic views of the Matterhorn with the Hornli ridge (our proposed ascent route) pointing straight towards us, dry and clear of snow.
The next day we had a casual start, and after a few last minute purchases (like leather climbing gloves) we made our way to and up the Schwartze telepherique where we began an easy but spectacular hike for a couple of hours to the Hornli hut.
After a quick lunch of 'rosti' we donned helmets and harnesses and made a foray up the ridge for an hour or so just to check out the initial route that would be our terrain in a pre dawn start the following day. We all moved well over this new medium of rock. We tried to calm our excitement as we turned in early to rest for the following day.
The hut was awakened around 330 am by the guardians and immediately the place was an exploding hive of climbers. Quickly donning boots, harness and helmets, we threw some basic breakfast of coffee and bread into our bodies and were out the door by 4 o'clock.
The first hour was over known terrain, as we had been there on our recon of the day before, and as we entered new terrain, we had the day's first light to help us on our way.
Dawn was spectacular as Brendan and I pulled ourselves on to the platform that housed the Solvay hut (a bivouac shelter high on the ridge), and we stopped for five minutes to drink some water and marvel at our position. We could see Mike and John not far behind us.
We did not rest for long though, as the masses of other people that we deemed our greatest hazard were streaming behind us.
The following is the conclusion to a report written by AAI guide Tim Connelly, detailing a series of climbs with John and Brandon Elley of Camano Island, WA on Mt. Blanc, the Matterhorn, and the Eiger that took place from July 17 - 26, 2006.
We all met up in Zermatt where Mike Powers showed us an excellent Swiss restaurant where we had a delicious meal and discussed the following days' activities and changes of equipment.
The early evening was clear, and returning to our hotels we had fantastic views of the Matterhorn with the Hornli ridge (our proposed ascent route) pointing straight towards us, dry and clear of snow.
The next day we had a casual start, and after a few last minute purchases (like leather climbing gloves) we made our way to and up the Schwartze telepherique where we began an easy but spectacular hike for a couple of hours to the Hornli hut.
After a quick lunch of 'rosti' we donned helmets and harnesses and made a foray up the ridge for an hour or so just to check out the initial route that would be our terrain in a pre dawn start the following day. We all moved well over this new medium of rock. We tried to calm our excitement as we turned in early to rest for the following day.
The hut was awakened around 330 am by the guardians and immediately the place was an exploding hive of climbers. Quickly donning boots, harness and helmets, we threw some basic breakfast of coffee and bread into our bodies and were out the door by 4 o'clock.
The first hour was over known terrain, as we had been there on our recon of the day before, and as we entered new terrain, we had the day's first light to help us on our way.
Dawn was spectacular as Brendan and I pulled ourselves on to the platform that housed the Solvay hut (a bivouac shelter high on the ridge), and we stopped for five minutes to drink some water and marvel at our position. We could see Mike and John not far behind us.
We did not rest for long though, as the masses of other people that we deemed our greatest hazard were streaming behind us.
Up and up we scrambled the ridge alternating between pitching out steeper rock portions and short roping/ pitching (a very fast and efficient guiding technique). Pretty soon though things were getting icier and we decided to put our crampons on. They added to our security as did the fixed lines which are big howser ropes that one can use to move fast over very mixed and steep terrain.
As the angle started easing off, there was more and more snow, but it was in great condition and we had no problem cramponing up the final summit slopes.
Spectacular views into Italy and across to France and Mt Blanc. Soon enough John also arrived and it was a great thing to see father and son congratulate each other atop such a peak.
Half way there; the descent took just as long as the ascent, and the hoards of people we had been in front of were now a tide that we needed to wade through on the way down.
Hilarious at times and a moment I will never forget was hearing my name shouted from above and looking, making out Mike Powers waving, mostly hidden from view in the midst of a very steep wall, shouting 'welcome to the Matterhorn!!'
Back at the Hornli hut we fueled up on more rosti, and then picking up our ski poles, we trekked down to the telepherique and on to Zermatt where some good, quick food sent us to bed and sleep.
Day 8. Now our pacing was to really come into play as we made our way to Grindelwald and out final objective, the Mittelegi Ridge on the Eiger. Rest and hydration was our mission as we transferred from train to train and eventually arrived at this most beautiful mountain town high above Interlaken. Another early night was in order.
John and Mike were to see Brendan and myself off on this last climb so we all rode the train up towards the Jungfraujock, first stopping at the North Face Station and then at the Ismeer Station where we got off. Fantastic big windows looked out over the glaciers and peaks of the Bernese Oberland as we donned our climbing gear and opened up a small metal door that led down a dimly lit corridor and the start of our route - what an approach!!
Finally after negotiating a few false doors that opened out onto the middle of a rock face we came out to a brief scramble above our glacier. Saying good-bye to John and Mike, we quickly moved across the warming glacier and onto the approach slabs. Right off the bat we were rock climbing in our boots, clipping insitu protection and loving moving over solid rock. After 3 pitches we changed to moving together and quickly found our way traversing super tiny ledges and increasingly loose rock. Perched on the narrow ridge we came upon the hut that would house us and 38 others that night; a far cry from the 130 at the Hornli hut.
We had time to enjoy our position here high above Grindelwald and the notorious North face of the Eiger; tea and apple pie also.
The Mittelegi Ridge is truly a fantastic alpine climb, and with so few other people on it we were at times climbing completely alone. Great, exposed rock pitches with breathtaking views fueled our ridiculous grins as we climbed higher and higher. The clouds that we rose into could not dampen our spirits a bit, and we were very psyched to top out on our third and final summit of this Trilogy.
Half way there. Our descent route was the south ridge and there was just as much climbing on it as in the ascent; in fact it took us more time. Most excellent was the journey with rappels, icy traverses, belayed rock climbing, and a final glacier traverse around the Monch to the train station at the Jungfraujock.
What an adventure this final peak and in fact the whole trip from our alpine ascents in Chamonix to Mt Blanc, the Matterhorn, and at last this notorious summit of the Eiger. I sincerely applaud both John and Brendan for all their hard work in preparing for this trip and their stamina and gusto throughout. I look forward to their company on many other adventures in the mountains of the world.
Cheers,
Tim
As the angle started easing off, there was more and more snow, but it was in great condition and we had no problem cramponing up the final summit slopes.
Spectacular views into Italy and across to France and Mt Blanc. Soon enough John also arrived and it was a great thing to see father and son congratulate each other atop such a peak.
Half way there; the descent took just as long as the ascent, and the hoards of people we had been in front of were now a tide that we needed to wade through on the way down.
Hilarious at times and a moment I will never forget was hearing my name shouted from above and looking, making out Mike Powers waving, mostly hidden from view in the midst of a very steep wall, shouting 'welcome to the Matterhorn!!'
Back at the Hornli hut we fueled up on more rosti, and then picking up our ski poles, we trekked down to the telepherique and on to Zermatt where some good, quick food sent us to bed and sleep.
Day 8. Now our pacing was to really come into play as we made our way to Grindelwald and out final objective, the Mittelegi Ridge on the Eiger. Rest and hydration was our mission as we transferred from train to train and eventually arrived at this most beautiful mountain town high above Interlaken. Another early night was in order.
John and Mike were to see Brendan and myself off on this last climb so we all rode the train up towards the Jungfraujock, first stopping at the North Face Station and then at the Ismeer Station where we got off. Fantastic big windows looked out over the glaciers and peaks of the Bernese Oberland as we donned our climbing gear and opened up a small metal door that led down a dimly lit corridor and the start of our route - what an approach!!
Finally after negotiating a few false doors that opened out onto the middle of a rock face we came out to a brief scramble above our glacier. Saying good-bye to John and Mike, we quickly moved across the warming glacier and onto the approach slabs. Right off the bat we were rock climbing in our boots, clipping insitu protection and loving moving over solid rock. After 3 pitches we changed to moving together and quickly found our way traversing super tiny ledges and increasingly loose rock. Perched on the narrow ridge we came upon the hut that would house us and 38 others that night; a far cry from the 130 at the Hornli hut.
We had time to enjoy our position here high above Grindelwald and the notorious North face of the Eiger; tea and apple pie also.
The Mittelegi Ridge is truly a fantastic alpine climb, and with so few other people on it we were at times climbing completely alone. Great, exposed rock pitches with breathtaking views fueled our ridiculous grins as we climbed higher and higher. The clouds that we rose into could not dampen our spirits a bit, and we were very psyched to top out on our third and final summit of this Trilogy.
Half way there. Our descent route was the south ridge and there was just as much climbing on it as in the ascent; in fact it took us more time. Most excellent was the journey with rappels, icy traverses, belayed rock climbing, and a final glacier traverse around the Monch to the train station at the Jungfraujock.
What an adventure this final peak and in fact the whole trip from our alpine ascents in Chamonix to Mt Blanc, the Matterhorn, and at last this notorious summit of the Eiger. I sincerely applaud both John and Brendan for all their hard work in preparing for this trip and their stamina and gusto throughout. I look forward to their company on many other adventures in the mountains of the world.
Cheers,
Tim
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